3D Printer Buying Tips for Newbies
I only recently got into 3D printing and there’s so much that I didn’t know before diving into my first print. Fortunately, I had a lot of support, advice, and suggestions from various people w/ 3D printing experience online. So, I figured I’d combine some of the top advice and answers to questions that you may have if you’re just starting to go down the 3D printing rabbit hole.
Which printer brand should you buy?
There’s 3 big name brands that I repeatedly heard about when searching for a new 3D printer:
Each brand has their own product line of 3D printers that are all capable of different qualities and printer features. Unless you’re planning to produce big-scale high-quality (and I mean super high-quality) level prints, you could likely get away with a printer that’s in the $300-$500 range. Anything over that is likely overkill for your first printer—especially if 3D printing is just another “hobby” of yours.
As for me? I purchased the Elegoo Centauri Carbon and the Bambu Labs A1 Mini. Why 2 printers? Honestly, I got FOMO. I initially ordered the Elegoo Centauri Carbon only to learn that it wouldn’t ship until a few weeks later. Since I was right in the middle of Amazon Prime Week, I got ahead of myself and ordered the Bambu Labs A1 Mini (because it was on sale) for fear that it’d take forever to get the Elegoo printer.
At the end of the day, I still spent less than $1K on two 3D printers.
One wise soul told me on Threads not to buy a 3D printer that I’d have to build as my first printer (like some of the Prusa printers). I’m so glad that I listened because building the printer from the ground up would’ve just added to my frustration.
Should you buy a FDM or resin printer?
FDM stands for Fused Deposition Modeling; these sort of printers heats and melts a plastic called filament which is then used to create your 3D model, layer by layer. Resin printers use photopolymer resin and light to create highly detailed models; it cures liquid resin with light, layer by layer, to build up a solid object.
To make a long story short, filament = less messy whereas resin = can get messy (if you’re not experienced). If you want to print larger objects, have higher durability, have less mess, and spend less money on supplies, get a FDM printer. If you want to print smaller objects with a high-level of detail, a super smooth surface, and don’t mind working with chemicals, then get a resin printer.
Should your FDM printer be enclosed or open?
I’ve learned that enclosed printers help with temperature consistency which is important for some materials like ABS. If you’re just printing with PLA (most likely the case if you’re brand new to 3D printing), then you could go either way with respect to enclosed or open printers.
There’s of course the safety aspect of it all to consider as well. 3D printers move incredibly fast and the parts can get super hot. If you’re concerned about tiny hands or paws accidentally touching the machine while it’s working, then consider an enclosed printer.
What sort of filament should you buy?
Go with either PLA or PLA+ until you’re comfortable with using your machine. On the upside, PLA/PLA+ comes in so many colors. However, don’t over do it and buy every color under the rainbow. If anything, purchase the following colors: gray OR white, and your favorite color. That’s it. You can honestly get away with just 1 spool of each until you’re comfortable with your printer.
Why gray or white? Well, you can sand and paint your prints! Either color will be helpful for noticing any imperfections in your print (which is useful when it comes to sanding and filling gaps). Also, either color is helpful as a base color for painting the object’s surface.
And why your favorite color? Well, you’re gonna wanna show off your first few feeble attempts at 3D printing. You might as well show something in a color you like!
But wait, can’t 3D printers print in multiple colors?
Yes, they can. However, that’ll require that you manually swap filament while printing OR purchase a printer that has an AMS (Automated Material System) which supports housing multiple filament colors without the need to manually swap filament while printing. Having a printer w/ an AMS typically cost a little more than a printer without one.
Since I personally plan to only ever print in pink or just paint my models, I didn’t bother with an AMS.
What about fancy PLA filament?
Don’t opt for the fancy PLA filament just yet. What’s the “fancy PLA filament”? Anything with the descriptors of the following: silk, magic, metal, luminous, etc. You run the risk of spending more time troubleshooting print quality. Just make sure that you can get a decent print w/ basic PLA or PLA+ first before expanding your horizons.
Which filament brand should you purchase?
Either purchase the filament provided by the same brand as your printer or go w/ eSUN. Are there other brands? Absolutely. So, if you decide to go outside either of those recommendations, I’d recommend doing your research. The cheaper the filament, well, you sometimes get what you paid for.
3D printer software has profiles for different filament types. If you go with a filament brand that’s the same as your printer, then finding the appropriate profile for your filament is quite simple. However, don’t let that completely hinder you from trying other brands. You’ll just need to do your homework to figure out which profile is best for the filament you’re using for your project.
What additional supplies will you need?
This list could go on forever, however, I’ll just focus on the essentials for a FDM printer (since those are the types that I personally own). Anything outside this list is likely still useful, however, I’d consider those items to be a nice-to-have rather than a blocker for getting started.
Air-tight container to store your filament. (note: Filament does not like moisture. If your printer is in a humid location, you’ll want to keep the filament as dry as possible.)
Desiccant (place this in the aforementioned container with your filament to dry it out)
And honestly, that’s it. If your 3D printer is in an extremely humid space and needs something to help it stay dry while printing, then you could purchase a Filament Dryer. I don’t personally have any recommendations for a particular one since I don’t own one—the reviews on Amazon were not in my favor so I disregarded the purchase of one altogether. Not to mention, I’m in Southern California and it’s seldom overtly humid in our home.
However, a filament dryer uses low heat to actively dry filament before or during printing. They often have a built-in temperature control and humidity display.
Setup will take 30-45 mins.
Once you get your new printer, expect to spend anywhere between 30-45 mins for the initial setup. Although the Bambu Labs A1 Mini wasn’t a full-on printer assembly like a Prusa printer, there were still things that I had to manually put together once the printer came out the box. The Elegoo Centauri Carbon had minimal manual setup which was nice.
After your printer is out of the box, fully assembled, and turned out, the waiting game will begin. Oh, and it’s loud. The printer needs to calibrate (is that even the right word?) itself and will likely need to do a software update. That’s really where you’ll spend a lot of your setup time.
If you’re curious to see what goes into assembly, check out my Bambu Labs A1 Mini Unboxing Instagram reel!
I hope that you enjoy your printer!
I buy a lot of supplies to fill up my studio and office. But by far, my 3d printers have been my most favorite purchases this year! Take your time choosing the printer that’s best for you and your needs. And most important, have fun!
